No 9. Pico De Orizaba 5,636m, Mexico.

Updated: Jun 23, 2022

16.03.2014 - Pico De Orizaba 5,636m, Mexico (UN Country High Point)

Information - Pico De Orizaba

I am an experienced UK mountain leader, hiker and climber and in addition I spend a lot of time out in Latin America, especially in gorgeous Mexico. Firstly El Pico de Orizaba (Citlaltépetl) or simply ‘Pico’ is a striking stand alone volcano situated in the Western state of Veracruz about a five hour drive from Mexico City. It towers over the nearby town of Tlachichuca and has that classic beautiful white summit cone. The glacier starts around 4900-5000m and covers the steep upper reaches of the mountain. Pico de Orizaba is the highest mountain in Mexico at 5,636m and the third highest in North America after Denali and Mount Logan. Orizaba is an ideal summit test if you are thinking of heading off to the higher peaks of South America or even Asia.

If you are considering doing this mountain I would first recommend that unless you are totally comfortable on big mountains to do this mountain with a guide company or at least a competent partner. Do not underestimate this mountain…people do die on it, mainly from doing it alone and traversing onto the steeper sections, stumbling and sliding off the glacier onto rock. I did this mountain with a friend who happens to own a guide company in Mexico City (Mexico Travesias).

I have sectioned off information about the mountain below but will not include directions. If you cannot find your way there then you should not do this mountain. Google Pico De Orizaba or go to SummitPost for full directions…I will deal with the mountain info from the summit hut up.

NOTES

WEATHER: Day time weather here in the climbing season (Oct-March) ranges from 15-25c and normally consists of clear blue skies. You could do the climb on a mild night and have a beautiful sunrise hike all the way to the summit. On the other hand you can have a full on snowy blustery day, freezing hiking conditions with a snow storm approach to the summit. Assess the local weather beforehand and be prepared for the worst. Check the mountain weather here for Pico: http://www.mountain-forecast.com/peaks/Pico-de-Orizaba/forecasts/4000

KIT: You will need to have the normal accruements for high peaks…trekking poles, layered top system including a good fleece top, warm trousers, waterproof jacket/bottoms, hat, balaclava, scarf/buff, sunglasses/snow goggles, lip balm, sunscreen, good quality gloves, helmet, head torch, harness, rope, ice axe, crampons and a few carabiners. Now in regard to footwear and crampons you can actually do this mountain with basic three season boots and strap on crampons…a lot of hikers/climbers do this on Pico as the glacier section is about 3-4 hours and done from sunrise onwards so you are not exposed to freezing ice conditions underfoot during the coldest part of the night. This is not ideal and you will have cold feet but it is perfectly feasible to do this. I did Pico using my Sportiva Evo’s which are an ideal boot for this type of half & half summit, half path, half snow….

SUMMIT HUT: The Piedra Grande is at 4,275m and can sleep around 40-60 climbers. It is not as plush as European or North American huts but there is no charge to sleep there. Leaving your gear during your climb could be a bit of a risk. The hut is in good condition and has a bunk system of sleeping but you will need to bring any supplies with you i.e. food, water. There is a toilet block nearby. Please remember that you will also need to bring your own sleeping bag and a warm/duvet type jacket for your stay.

HIGHCAMP OPTION: Another option instead of staying in the hut is to establish a high camp either before the labyrinth at 4500 m or at the base of the glacier at 4900 m. There are several platforms on the moraine where a few tents can be set up.

Difficulty:

Acclimitisation: It will be very prudent to do one of the nearby peaks (Sierra Negra, Cofre de Perote) or one of several others near Mexico City prior to the climb. A good idea would be to overnight in the Piedra Grande hut and have an acclimitisation hike prior to your summit day.

Technical: The first 2-3 hours is scree/trail walking, you then have 1-2 hours through the ‘Labyrinth’ and a further 3-4 hours up the Jamapa glacier. This is technically around PD to PD+, at around 30-40 degree ice slope.

Labyrinth section: Between 4,800m and 5000m can be technically more demanding under bad snow conditions. If snow is scarce and the route is icy you will need to use your axe and front point. On occasions it may require some protection. Assess this with your guide or speak to other climbers at the hut.

Route description:

Three sections

1. Hut to 4,750m is steep rocky/scree terrain.

2. From 4,750m to 5,050m is mixed ice/snow/rock.

3. Above 5,050m glacier

MY DAY: I did this route in ten hours leading a group of two other climbers and the weather was clear but with a strong icy wind. The labyrinth section was devoid of snow and we had to bite in hard with our axes (one sufficed) and our crampons for a short section only. We had no undue problem. It is a great mountain, be careful but you should have a great experience because it is a great mountain!

ROUTE: FROM PIEDRA GRANDE BASECAMP TO SUMMIT OF PICO DE ORIZABA

Start point: Refugio Piedra Grande (4275m)

Summit: Pico de Orizaba (5636m)

Time required: Ascent-5hrs to 8hrs. Descent-3hrs to 4hrs. Round trip of 8hrs (very fast) to 12hrs (slow), 10 hours is average.

Ascent total: 1,361m

Emergency shelters en route: none

Water en route: none

Ascent Entry on Peakbagger: Pico de Orizaba

GPXfiles: For gpx files click on the below.