The stunning iron age forts of the southern Carneddau (nr Builth Wells).

Updated: Oct 3, 2020

Carneddau 445m

Not to be confused with its northern neighbours the Carneddau just outside the quaint mid Wales town of Builth Wells also make for some fine walking. I had wanted to do this hike for a while so with my old friend ‘Big Al’ (Big in the 18” arm sense) we parked in a lay-by (OS Grid Ref: SO 061 517) near to the working quarry on the A481 Builth to Hundred House road. The forecast was for morning snow showers and reasonable weather later on in the day.

Donning our waterproofs pre-emptively we were off! Down to the quarry we ambled and took the road leading towards the quarry (public footpath) turning north just before it and headed up on trails and tracks until we came out on common land just above Maengowan farm. The showers were steady but at this stage we still had some views. Up we went at a steady old plod and it wasn’t long before we hit the top of Caer Fawr ‘Big Fort’ (OS Grid Ref: SO 058 531) an iron age settlement. By now though the snow was coming in and things were a bit grim so we just got on with it heading for the imposing cairn at OS Grid Ref: SO 066 541. By now the wind was biting cold and snow was coming in strong and I thought I was destined to have another no view day.

Heading north west though towards a stone wall towards trig point 436 we stopped for a break and just watched the sky break into a blue sky paradise. With renewed vigour off we went following the wall directly north before getting to a gate and then turned directly west and headed steeply uphill to the trig point. Here the views were a feast for our eyes, our whole route was laid bare in front of our eyes and the surrounding snow capped mid Wales hills looked stunning.

Not trusting the weather one bit we headed down hill, headed north to avoid a water table and came round north east to hit the unmarked high point of the Carneddau at OS Grid Ref: SO 069 552 at 445m. The lumpy tundra like terrain made for some glorious hiking and we were like little children in our own playground surrounded by nothing but beauty. Heading south east and less than five hundred meters later we were on our second iron age fort of the day and the several stoney steeply sided ramparts gave rise to visions of the the good old civilised brits being attacked by hordes of barbaric romans…or was it the other way about?

Heading south we headed downhill to the only stream that runs through the Carneddau (it runs W to E) and looking back the views of the fort was imposing and indeed the views everywhere stunning in our newly found mountain range. As soon as we forded the stream (easy enough) we headed SW towards but by-passing the first cairn we had surmounted earlier on in the day on its southern slope along quite a distinct but muddy footpath.

The views down the Wye valley was stunning, nearby Aberedw Hill (another fine hike) glorious and everywhere the eyes turned to was simply sublime beauty. We really couldn’t believe our luck with the weather so we changed our route a little bit and decided to take in the third iron age fort of the day namely Caer Einion at OS Grid Ref: SO 063 530. The walk over to this fort was undulating and the views towards the small but volcanic look alike tump of Garth and Builth Wells town were just gorgeous.

With our third fort done, a host of great photos and a brilliant day in the outdoor office so far we headed off for home. We dropped down the steep western slope of Caer Einon headed north and came round west just under Caer Fawr that was our first fort of the day. We then joined our original path and headed off down hill on the 3 km hike back to the car with beaming smiles on our faces.

It had been a fantastic day. Not a long hike by any means but scenically stunning, a lumpy 14k jaunt taking in some great cairns and high points along with three iron age forts to boot. One of the finest hikes I have been on in a while. Go and do this hike!!

Parking and access: Large lay-by at OS Grid Ref: SO 061 517 on the A481 Builth to Hundred House road just over a km east of the road junction with the A483. There is enough room for 7-8 cars but quite a few builders/workers from the quarry park here so it is quite busy.

NOTE: When we got back to the car we found some half wit had not put on his handbrake on his vehicle and it had gently kissed the back of ours. Luckily it had not caused any damage.

Route Summary: Once you get above the quarry and onto the common land you have either reasonably distinct footpaths or you will be bushwhacking across open country. It is boggy in places but not unduly so (now winter). The terrain is lumpy but not unduly steep or punishing and in anyway it is scenically stunning. All in it was 14.5kms with 760m of ascent completed in just short of 5 hours. We were slow and enjoyed the landscape.

GPX files: For gpx files go to the Peakbagger website by following this link and go to the bottom right hand of the page and click ‘Download this GPS track as a GPX file.’